May 3, 2012

Felt extremely morose this morning and had a hard time putting myself together and getting to the PedInst where two of my students had offer to find seamstresses for my two remaining outfits. I sat in the courtyard and texted Manzura to let her know I was waiting for her. Students from my former 101 group were coming out from their test and surrounded me with questions and comments. I then saw Farzona and she told Oigul’s father had died three days ago and she had tried to text me to let me know. When she checked my number, she realized she had one digit off. I promised to call Oigul and pay her visit and when I asked the students if flowers were appropriate for the occasion, they all said no and advised me to bring sweets or even better, money. The last suggestions seemed the more practical for me and I’ll be doing just that.

The group of teachers came out next and most of them had long faces indicating they had not passed the oral test. One of the students confided that the deputy dean was asking each student for 40.00 somoni or about $8.30 per student to give them a passing mark. Many of the students don’t have this kind of money as they would have to pay the same for each class to different professors. The dean blamed me for the inability to answer the questions from the stupid Russian textbook. This student told me the reason the deputy dean did not want my presence during the test was so he could not be hampered in his attempts to collect bribes. I know understand how he’s able to dress in fancy suits and own a car as the salaries at the PedInst are extremely low.

                          Enjoying the company of some of my students at the PedInst.

 At least, we were able to enjoy an extended moment of hilarity with the student accusing each other of having had a crush on one or another followed by the requisite denial. Both Zulekho and Manzura promised to have my dressed made by next Monday and vehemently protested when I spoke of payment as they felt they were doing me a favor, but I refused to accept such an offer and told me I’ll be paying the same as I do to other seamstresses.

It was to the students’ hostel next as I was curious as to what the place looked like inside. One of my students had agreed to show his room, kitchen and laundry area. We had to obtain permission from the woman who supervises Hostel #7 and I took a photo of the squalid TV lobby, sans TV, and then we went up the stairs and through a dark, narrow corridor to his room where three bunk beds and two twin beds lined the walls. A makeshift desk and wardrobe completed the décor. My student said the steam radiator worked during the winter, but I wonder how much heat it could put out. This student said it was not too cramped on a daily basis because many of the five students living there have relatives in the city and would go there for their meals and other needs. The kitchen was a dismal affair with three bathroom sinks and two stoves for about twenty students to use. The bathrooms and laundry area were locked.

TV lounge sans TV.

Dorm for five students

                   Another view of the dorm.

                                                Kitchen sinks

Stoves

Eraj insisted we visit his former hostel next door as he felt it was better managed and thus much cleaner and brighter. The lobby here did have a small TV set, but the halls were as dreary as the other one and the kitchen floor was flooded. Eraj swore things were better when he lived there until two years ago when he moved in with his uncle’s family both to save money and because of petty theft on the part of other students. He knocked on his former dorm room and woke up a student there. He knew all of them and commanded one of the students to play the guitar for me. We took some photos and then left.

                                          Eraj at his former hostel's TV lounge.

Student conscripted to play the guitar for me.

                                          Some of the hostel's residents.

My soup place was still open and I had my usual, but the fatir bread as cold. What could I expect at almost 4:00pm? I took a taxi to get to Corrie’s place on time as her roommate, Michelle, had asked me to practice Zumba with her as she paid for the basic class prior to coming to Tajikistan so she could teach classes here, but doesn’t feel very confident after only eight hours of training. We went through the basic steps for merengue, salsa, cumbia and reggaeton as Michelle didn’t even know the names for the different types of dances she was practicing to. I worked up a good sweat while she remained as cool as a cucumber and mentioned she belongs to a local gym and goes running on a regular basis, two types of fitness routines I really hate. She invited me to stay for dinner as they were having macaroni and cheese, but I declined as I was still full from my soup and needed to get home to do laundry and other chores in preparation for my potluck dinner tomorrow.

Corrie came in from her classes just as I was leaving and we chitchatted for a little bit before I left. The mini-van took a detour after I got in and I almost panicked thinking I had gotten into the wrong one only to realize a crew is repairing that stretch of road due to heavy damage after all the snow we had this past winter and is temporarily closed.