May 28, 2012

I felt much better this morning as I got almost a full night sleep. I opened my eyes to a glorious morning and it seems as if a thousand birds had picked my tree to send out their most beautiful singing into the world. The acrid smell of smoked still lingered all over the apartment and I left even the front door open, against the advice of local Tajiks that consider such practice very dangerous, to see if more cross-ventilation would help get rid of the odor faster. I emailed Corrie hoping she was back from China and ready to confirm that I could move my suitcases into her apartment on the 31.

Eraj was as punctual as ever while I had been busy cleaning the kitchen and doing paperwork and had not found time to have breakfast yet. I ate one of the hard boiled eggs from yesterday and a piece of flat bread and rushed out of the house with my travel mug filled with tea. Our first stop was at the Tajik Air office where the clerk refused to take my credit card to pay for the tickets. Conveniently, they have a currency exchange office on the same floor and I had brought in dollars just in case, so there was no delay. Eraj had never seen a credit card and didn’t understand why I was trying to use a piece of plastic instead of real money. My cough had turned ugly and tears were streaming down my face, so Eraj suggested stopping at one of the many pharmacies in the area to try and find some lozenges that could sooth my throat. I bought all six of the packets the guy had to insure I have plenty of them for the trip.

We then went to the Kazakh embassy where Eraj had to use his rusty Russian to find out if a letter of invitation was needed, it turned out it wasn’t, and I asked whether I could return in the afternoon with the completed form, but the same woman I had dealt with last January said no. I got to make another trip tomorrow to bring the form and a photo and then she’ll let me know if they find me acceptable to visit their country. I was trying to get the visa confirmed this week so I can proceed to buy my airline ticket as soon as possible.

We moved on to the Turkish Airlines offices to find out about my bags. We waited a while and I needed to use the bathroom for which I had to go through security, leave my passport as collateral, and then go up to the 8^th floor to use it. I was then informed I’m entitled to carry just one bag as part of my ticket and a second bag would cost a flat rate of $205.00. I find that hard to swallow. Even my carry-on must weigh less than 8KG or about 17 pounds. I have to go home and reconsider what really needs to return to the States.

I invited Eraj to accompany me to lunch before I headed to my class at Caritas and we stopped at the little place near the UNESCO building where we had had lunch during the ETM. The food, plov, was flavorless, but at least fresh and hot. He waited with me until I got on the trolley and I found Jamshed standing right behind me. He claimed to have just returned from Qurgonteppa, but I couldn’t see his backpack anywhere. He reported to have left it in his hometown, which makes no sense, and was only carrying a single plastic bag. I informed him his sunglasses were still on my coffee table and he said he’d come by for them tonight. I continue to be wary of him.

The class at Caritas had a late start as neither Khurshed nor Takhmina were back in the office yet. I spoke to Nigina for a while, had my cup of coffee and then we got started to discuss “Animated Animals” and oxymorons, a concept they were unfamiliar with. Since this is our next to last class, the group presented me with a necklace and bracelet of a stone that they believe have curative powers. Takhmina is going to find the English equivalent to the Russian name so I can research it. It looked almost like an opaque type of amber and the stone is relatively heavy. I thanked profusely and segued into asking for recommendations for presents to bring back home that would not be too large or heavy. Not one of them was familiar with the type of teaspoon my brother-in-law collects and could make no suggestions as to where it might be sold.

Walking toward the mini-van, I could see the mountains in the background pretty much bereft of any snow now. The greenery is quickly spreading up the slopes and I know it’s going to be beautiful to hike up any of the surrounding hills to enjoy the cooler weather and the fantastic views. I hope to be able to do so any day now. I sent Corrie a text message afraid that she might have missed her return flight or changed her mind entirely. She didn't respond and I suspect she has extended her visit to China and might not return until she is due for her classes on Wednesday.

Jamshed came by to retrieve his sunglasses and asked for a cup of coffee. Once I brewed the java, he asked for flat bread or anything else to eat with it as he hadn’t had dinner and it was close to 8:00pm. I was a bit put off by his request, but offered a chunk of cheese and the remaining flat bread from breakfast. I gave him some other teacher materials still lying around the apartment and asked him to call my landlady to notify her of my impending departure at the end of the month. Neither she nor her assistant answered the calls placed from my mobile phone and Jamshed’s in case she didn’t want to talk to me. I can see them in my mind saying “I’m not picking up that call. She might need something.” Jamshed promised to call again in the morning and then send me a text message letting me know the outcome. I just need to know what the arrangement will be to return the keys upon my leaving.