January 13, 2012

It seemed so unfair to wake to rain this morning when yesterday we had such clear skies. Taking into account that temperatures were expected to go up to the 40s, I dressed in a long sleeve t-shirt and blouse forgoing the usual thermal one and sweater I’ve been wearing lately. Bakhtyor and a group of volunteers were waiting for Corrie and me to arrive so we could depart for the city of Faizabad, about an hour away, where the U. S. Embassy was about to open a smaller version of the American Corner, the American Window, and where equipment needed to be transported there. Bakhtyor thought the occasion lent itself to an exchange with American teachers.

I begged to ride up front and shared the seat with Olim, a college student who dreams of becoming a scriptwriter and filmmaker and who has been volunteering at the American Corner to improve his English. It was great to have someone alongside who could answer my questions and who seemed fairly intelligent and well-informed. The driver was very courteous and drove slowly and cautiously, which I loved and proceeded to compliment him on it.

We went up the mountains and, of course, while it was only raining in Dushanbe, it was snowing in Faizabad. It was also very windy, something I had never encountered in the capital. We stopped at the building of the future American Window and there was no power there. Luckily, we didn’t need to stay long and only unloaded the equipment and proceeded to drive to another location where the teachers and students were waiting for us. It was another frigid room with only a lonesome space heater to warm up the place and so we all kept our coats on while listening to Bakhtyor explain what the American Corner was about while apparently never having to take a single breath.

Corrie and other attendees at Faizabad

Corrie and I realized we didn’t even have a blackboard to use here and just went for a talk after introducing ourselves, asking about their region, and their schools. She had brought one activity to do in pairs and we proceeded with that until it was time to go to lunch. The coordinator said he had taken care of that for us and drove to large restaurant, cavernous and cold, where they had reserved a room for us. It had no overhead lighting or any source of heating and the windows were covered with a light curtain, which I proceeded to tie together so we could at least see what we’d be eating. The table was already set with salads, flat bread, juices, tea and sodas. Shorbot was served shortly thereafter and I was preparing myself for the customary plate of plov when the server came in with mashed potatoes and a patty of ground lamb. It could have been a lot better if it had been hot, but it was quite tasty as it was. As usual, there was no dessert. Before departing, we promised the coordinator, who spoke little English, that we’d to try and arrange for a training session for the upcoming spring season.

Passing the American Window on the way out of town, some of the men exited the car and Corrie informed me there was a bathroom available if I wanted to use it. Of course I needed to after all that soup and tea. I went inside the building only to be told the bathroom was outside, and a bit suspicious, I went around the corner to find that the bathroom in question consisted of a hole in the ground surrounded by a sheet of plastic to provide privacy. I turned right around and went back to the car where Corrie and the other volunteers had a good laugh at my expense.

                                               Toilet in Faizabad

Daroush came by the apartment to chat for a while and to say he was serious about going to the States for a short course in English. He seems to have the resources and so I emailed my former colleague at FSCJ so she could provide him with the requirements to study there as an international student. Maryam came by while he was here to say that her friend Muazama had extended me an invitation for lunch on Sunday, the same day I’m already committed to have lunch with my landlady. I promised to go with her later on in the afternoon.