November 24, 2011

I opened my eyes this morning to find a foggy morning with heavy rain pounding on the roof. Caroline promised to come earlier and tried to find out what the problem might be with my Skype connection as she has no problems skyping with friends and relatives. She didn’t make it until 12:00 and then informed me she was not feeling well and would not be accompanying us to the Thanksgiving dinner sponsored by the embassy staff. We walked together to Rudaki to meet with Peter and Elisabeth so we could share the taxi ride. Caroline had brought a pasta salad to contribute. I had nothing.

We had to wait for Elisabeth, under the pouring rain, who was at T-Mobile checking the balance on her cell phone and inquiring about the modem, which she's still reluctant to spring for. Tajik men and women were scurrying around as they had just celebrated a local holiday as well, Flag Day. We hopped on a shared taxi and got past the Medical College, but Elisabeth didn't know exactly where the street was. I asked a passerby and Peter followed him into a shop where someone gave him directions. We followed a narrow street full of the usual gates, I'm beginning to call Dushanbe the ultimate gated community, got on the wrong side and could not find #16. Not a soul on the street and just gates on both sides. I noticed a chair on the street with some flat bread, covered by plastic bags, propped on a chair and found it was an advertisement for a tiny bakery where they bake the more artisanal bread with the designs and poppy seeds in the center. Elisabeth was carrying her camera and took some photos. We promised to buy some bread on the way back.

                                                     Traditional bakery

                                             Admiring the bread outside the bakery

Sarah's house was still farther out and then we saw the diplomatic license plates, the high gate and door bell. I believe the gate itself must be armored and there was a guard just to open the door and two other inside a cubicle. She lives in a three-story house with expensive chandeliers and massive furniture. Polished hardwood floors were covered with numerous rugs and we weren't required to take off our shoes, but I need because for the first time, water had gotten inside and my socks were dripping wet. At first I didn't recognize anyone, but Camilla recognized me and came to greet me. She happened to be speaking to Darren, who just nodded in my direction, so Peter started talking to him. I was not introduced to anyone and only met the hostess when I walked into the kitchen to hand her your salad. The kitchen is the size of my entire apartment and she had two local women helping her. She had given a tour of the home already, so we missed it. I approached the coffee table laden with appetizers such as sushi, hummus with real Kalamata olives and smoked almonds. There was woman, who appeared to be African-American or at least multi-racial sitting nearby and I introduced myself.  Peter pointed out to me that the skinny, gray-haired fellow sitting at the end of the same sofa was the ambassador as he recognized his face from a photo on the website. I was not introduced and after Sandy's stern warning about approaching him, I kept my distance. There was way too much food and one table set up nearby remained entirely empty. The only person from the embassy I saw later on was Elena, and yes, she did say hello to me without prompting. No Sandy, Tahmina or Damian, Vali and so on. The food was bland, the cranberries oily and extremely tart, the pies were the best and to top it off, she did have good coffee. I had two cups and probably won't be able to go to sleep until three in the morning. Sarah apparently forgot  Caroline’s salad and the cucumber one Elisabeth had made and brought them out after everybody had served themselves. She did encouraged us to take leftovers home and Hillary and Lauren, who showed up late, but in time to eat, told Sarah that Ilana was teaching her lesson about Thanksgiving (so generous of her) and it'd be nice to take her  a plate. I remembered Caroline’s saucepan and claimed likewise. So I have enough food to feed me for at least two days after adding some seasonings, of course. She even said to take some pie and I have slice of pecan pie and pear pie, which were very good.

We bought some flat bread on the way to Rudaki and I took some of the hummus and olives to have tomorrow for lunch.  Darren was his morose usual self and even lay on the couch after eating. Elena left shortly after the dinner. When we finally got underway, Elisabeth recollected that she not given Sarah a proper goodbye, e. i., a hug and wanted to go back. Peter said it was fine and we'd wait. I said a curt no; that my feet were wet and my hands cold and I wanted to get home. She was going around the room talking about her damn TA and even when taking leftovers had to tell us all that she'd be sharing them with her tomorrow.  Peter was in heaven because Sarah has two big, fat cats and he couldn't take his eyes off of them. He also enjoyed the meal tremendously and kept sighing after every course. 

My clogs were completely soggy by the time I reached home and I now know I can’t wear them when it’s simply pouring outside.